People from almost every corner of the globe have owned horses for one reason or another, and it is for this reason that there are now so many different breeds. However, all horses fall into one of three main categories: pony, light, and heavy classifications. If you are unfamiliar with horse breeds, this is a good starting place.

From this point, some people like to further classify horses into the subcategories such as draft horses, gaited horses, and warmbloods. So these are terms that you might hear when people talk of horse breeds. But for all intents and purposes, we will stick with the three main categories for this article.

Knowing about these different breeds might give you an idea of what kind of horse will be best for your situation – and will let you in on which horses are good for children, which are good for the whole family to ride, which ones are good for racing, and which ones will help out on the ranch.

Pony Breeds

The smallest of the popular pony breeds is the Shetland Pony, and for this reason, it is often the first horse given to children. While the Shetland is usually sweet and relaxed, this breed can, on occasion, get feisty. So no matter what breed of pony, children need to be supervised with horses of any kind.

The Connemara Pony, is larger than the Shetland, and for this reason, often makes a great pony for older children. Another good breed for this young adults and young teens is the Welsh Pony, which is just a little bit larger than the Connemara.

Light Breeds

People often mistake the Miniature Horse for a pony, but it is not classified as one because it does not have the same characteristics as those of the pony breed. This light breed horse is often a companion for children as well as a guide for the disabled.

One of the most loved horse breeds around falls into the category of Light Horses – the Arabian. These horses are not only attractive, but in general, are also known for being sweet, loving, graceful, and speedy. Everything about this horse seems to be perfect – from its kind nature to its speed and endurance while racing.

A descendent of the Arabian, the Thoroughbred, is another popular light breed. This horse is quite fast, so it makes for a great racing horse. Because of this, this breed of horse can be quite expensive. If you are looking for a horse for the family, though, this might not be the best choice since these can be too fast and dangerous for inexperienced riders.

If you are looking for a horse that could help out on a farm or a ranch rounding up cattle, or for a tough horse that can compete in races and competitions, then you may want a Quarter Horse. This is an American horse breed that got its name for being able to race at a good pace for a quarter of a mile. It is a pretty tough breed, but also good for taking on a leisurely ride.

A smaller horse that is also family-friendly as well as hard working is the Morgan Horse. A man named Justin Morgan, who was amazed by the strength and loving nature of his little horse, developed the Morgan breed. This breed has a strong body with a friendly disposition.

Other popular light horse breeds include the Paint, the Standardbred, the Appaloosa, the Saddlebred, the Tennessee Walking Horse, and the Paso Fino.

Heavy Breeds

There are two types of heavy horses: horses that were once used in battle and draft horses. The warhorses went through tough training to ready them for battle, while the draft horses were used to work on farms or to pull carts and wagons.

The Percheron is a smaller heavy horse, but still quite powerful. This horse breed is intelligent and has a friendly nature, so it is easier to train than others, and can be a good animal for the family or the farm. However, if color is important to you, you might note that it only comes in gray or black.

The most famous of the draft horses is probably the Clydesdale. This attractive horse has been bred to do hard work, but it also has a friendly nature, so it makes for a good horse to ride on, too.

Some other popular draft breeds include the Belgian, and then the rarer Shire and Suffolk Punch breeds.

Of the war horse breeds, the Lipizzaner is the probably most famous. This is most likely because these horses often travel around doing performances for Austrian events.

As you can see, there are many breeds to choose from, and hopefully this will give you some idea of what type you are looking for. The best thing to do, however, is to see how different horses interact with you individually when shopping for a horse for you and possibly for your family.

Katya Coen is a regular contributor to All Horses, where you can find a wealth of information on everything pertaining to horses and you can even browse our gallery of horse pictures.

As early as 50,000 years ago, the Cro-Magnon man hunted the horse for meat. We have evidence that in the middle-east, animal husbandry was practiced around 9000 BC, and between 5,000 and 6,000 years ago, people everywhere were domesticating the horse. They quickly realized the great advantage horses would be to their lives. At work and play, the horse soon became a much loved companion.

Horseback riding has been well documented in history. Although we don’t know exactly when and where this discipline began, what we do know with some certainty is that riding a horse could have first been achieved quite by chance! Either way, people throughout the world discovered the joys and benefits of riding a horse. Riders soon discovered that they could cover longer distances, they could efficiently herd livestock, and they could ward off predators.

It wasn’t long before horses became a primary vehicle for warfare and hunting. The great war-horses, or destriers, were carefully bred and even hand-picked. Fortunately for the horse, the mechanization of war made the need for horses nearly non-existent. It became time to put the horses back out to pasture where they belonged. Again, people became aware of the great benefits of horse ownership and the joys of riding.

In the New World of America, Rhode Island served as a primary horse breeding region in the 1700′s. Horses provided reliable transportation for the Americans. This was a preferred method of getting around to the rickety roads being built in small town America. Horses proved themselves to be invaluable back then as people migrated to the west. The horse proved to be a faithful and invaluable companion, pulling heavy supplies across the large expanse of land. During the 1800s, the horse could be seen as a vital part of urban life. Soon, cabs and carriages were pulled along, effortlessly by man’s new best friend and this allowed people to move about their towns with complete freedom.

The horse remains one of man’s closest companions. Today, people from almost every culture are using the horse for work as well as play. The traditional Amish still plow their fields using the horse. The horse has remained a faithful companion since the earliest time in history and the horse has seen man through many challenges in life. Always a loyal worker, the horse is a great friend, too!

It was long believed that the pre-extinction American horse was a more primitive form and not the true horse of today, perhaps closer to Eohippus (a 5-toed progenitor of the horse) than Equus Caballus. But that changed in September of 1993, when some placer miners in the Yukon uncovered a horse and paleontologists were called in. Well preserved in the permafrost layer, the  brownish red horse didn’t look different from any other horse that had died and been buried in the mud. In fact, when archeologist Ruth Gotthardt went to investigate, she first thought the carcass might be the remains of a horse that had died during the Yukon Gold Rush about 100 years before. Even the stomach contents were still in the gut, and the flaxen mane hung over the neck of the hide covered skeleton.

Nevertheless, she sent the carcass to Dr. Richard Harington, a paleontologist and Curator of Quaternary Zoology at the Canadian Museum of Nature in Ottawa, and a bone sample to Miami for radiocarbon dating.  Analysis revealed it was about 25,000 years old! proving that the horse is a true native species. At first it was declared an extinct species, Equus lambeii, but DNA analysis (not to mention the obvious physical resemblance) proved it to be in all respects the same as the modern horse, equus caballus.

It is very important that your horse gets plenty of fiber in their diet. When you buy grain or feed for them make sure you purchase one that has a high fiber content. It is also very important that your horse gets plenty of water throughout the day they do not become dehydrated. You need to be careful if you feed your horse hay because if it is not properly treated it can harm or even kill your animal.

Make sure that your horse also get plenty of hay around three flakes a day is a good amount. If your horse is not getting a lot of exercise and starts to gain weight you can cut back on the amount of hay you give them. It is a good idea to mix the hay with alfalfa so they get the proper nutrients they need.

Remember that when you are feeding your horse you need to give them the right amount of food. If you give too much it can cause colic and create havoc on the digestive system. Make sure that you find the right food so they can get the right amount of nutrients they need in their diet. It is also important that you make sure your horse gets plenty of exercise so they do not become overweight.

Digestive Tract of the Equine

For domestic livestock, horses have a peculiar digestive tract (Figure 1). Functionally, the digestive tract can be divided into two components (foregut and hindgut). Components of the foregut include the mouth, esophagus, stomach, and small intestine; while the hindgut includes the cecum, large colon, small colon, and rectum. The foregut of the horse accounts for approximately 35 to 40 percent of the relative capacity of the digestive tract. When compared to the relative capacity of the foregut in pigs (60 to 65 percent) and cattle (85 to 90 percent; Figure 2); the uniqueness of the horses’ digestive anatomy becomes apparent.

Horses have a small stomach in terms of relative size compared to other classes of livestock. This makes the rate of passage of ingesta (feed) through the stomach relatively fast. Horses are physically unable to vomit or belch. Consequently, overfeeding and rapid rates of intake are a potential problem.

Meal size and physical form of the diet influence rate of passage of ingesta through the foregut. Larger meals pass more quickly than smaller meals since stomach emptying is controlled by meal volume. Smaller feed particles (finely ground or pelleted grains) and liquids pass rather quickly to the hindgut. Excessively fast rates of passage can reduce the extent of digestion in the foregut since the feed passes through too quickly for the digestive processes to occur.

One of the unique features of the horse digestive tract is the presence of a large microbial population in the cecum and colon. These microorganisms are responsible for extensive fermentation of residues remaining following digestion and absorption in the foregut. The microbes have the ability to utilize the cellulose present in forages. Consequently, even though horses are monogastrics, they do have the ability to utilize forages. The anatomy of the colon (several flexures or folds which turn back onto itself) greatly reduces the rate of ingesta passage. Although this is an advantage in utilizing roughages, it can predispose the horse to digestive upsets when nutrient flow is abnormal.

Feeding Management

The basic feed requirements of the horse are relatively simple. As a general rule of thumb, a horse will typically consume 10 to12 gallons of water, greater than or equal to 1.0 percent of body weight in forage, and less than or equal to 1.0 percent of body weight in concentrate per day. Horses should also be given free choice salt.

Water

Clean water should be available at all times. A mature horse may drink 12 gallons of water a day. Water consumption has a positive correlation to feed intake. If water intake is restricted, dry matter intake will also be reduced. Inadequate water consumption can result from having snow as the only water source, faulty watering equipment, or unpalatable water sources. Inadequate water consumption also increases the risk of impaction colic.

Reduced water consumption can be a sign of unpalatable or low quality water. Horses do not readily consume stale or dirty water. High salinity (total dissolved salts) or high sodium concentrations can also reduce water consumption. For more information regarding water quality, see Livestock and Water (NDSU Extension Service Circular AS-954).

Water that is supplied manually should be changed at least twice a day to avoid becoming stale or contaminated. Automatic water sources should be cleaned frequently. Clean and disinfect community water sources if a sick horse is detected in a group. Sick horses should have access to a separate water source until they are considered healthy again.

Horses that are hot from strenuous exercise should not have free access to water. They should be allowed only a few sips every three to five minutes until they have adequately cooled down. Working horses and horses in strenuous exercise programs require more water than inactive horses since large amounts of water are lost as sweat.

How much to feed

It is beneficial to know the actual weight of a horse when developing rations. This allows a more accurate estimate of the nutrient requirements and expected intake of the horse being fed. Normally, horses will eat the equivalent of 1.5 to 2.5 percent of their body weight as dry matter per day (this includes forage and grain). Heavily lactating mares, intensively worked mature horses and younger weaned horses (4 to18 months of age) can consume up to 3 percent of their body weight as dry matter daily. Producers can assume horses grazing on adequate pasture, supplemented with grain, will consume at least half of their daily dry matter intake from grazing.

It is also important to know the weight of the feeds when feeding horses. A volume of feed (scoops of concentrate or flakes of square-baled hay) is fine for instructing others how to feed your horses. However, you must know the weight per unit volume of each feedstuff to provide the proper proportions. Table 1 lists the weight of various feeds per unit volume. The true value for a specified feed may vary as much as 35% from average values. A more accurate estimate of weight per unit volume can be obtained by weighing a known volume of the actual feed being fed. This logic can be used to estimate the weight of concentrates, grains or roughages (bales or flakes).

Table 1.Weight per unit volume of selected feedstuffs.
Feed (as fed)	lbs/qt
Alfalfa Meal	0.60
Barley, whole	1.50
Barley, ground	1.20
Beet Pulp, dried	0.60
Corn, grain, whole	1.75
Corn, grain, cracked	1.60
Distillers grains, dried	0.60
Gluten feed, dried	1.30
Linseed meal	1.00
Milo, whole (grain sorghum)	1.70
Molasses	3.00
Oats, regular, whole	0.85
Oats, heavy, whole	1.00
Oats, dehulled, whole	1.40
Soybean, whole	1.60
Soybean meal	1.80
Soybean hulls, ground	0.90
Wheat, whole	1.80
Wheat, ground	1.55
Wheat midds	0.70
Forages	cu ft/ton
Hay, baled	200-360
Hay, cubed	60-70
Hay, loose	450-600
Straw, baled	400-500
Straw, chopped	250-350
Straw, loose	675-1000
The true value for a listed feed may vary by as much as 35% above or below the value given. An accurate value is only obtained by weighing a volume of the actual feed. Adapted from Feeding and Care of the Horse, 1995. Lon D. Lewis.

Long-stemmed forages

Horses evolved in a grazing environment and their digestive systems can accommodate large quantities of roughage. Although horses can consume large quantities of concentrates, including long-stemmed forage in the diet slows the overall rate of passage and increases dry matter and water intake. A minimum of 1.0 percent body weight of roughage (pasture, hay, or other forage) should be offered daily to ensure adequate intake and digestive health. The use of long-stemmed forage in the diet may also help prevent or curtail other management problems such as tail chewing, wood chewing, and coprophagy (feeding on fecal material).

Nutritional quality of forages reflects the relative concentrations of energy, protein and fiber. Forages which are higher in quality (higher in energy and protein) require less concentrate supplementation to meet the nutrient needs of the horse. Lower quality forages (those with higher amounts of indigestible fiber) tend to require extensive (and expensive) concentrate supplementation to meet the nutrient requirements of certain types of horses.

It is generally recommended that horses be fed long-stemmed rather than processed (pelleted, ground, wafered, cubed) forages. Feeding long-stemmed forages tends to reduce the rate of consumption, stabilize ingesta flow and maintain digestive health. If forages are processed, particle size should be kept quite coarse to prevent digestive upset. Providing long-stemmed forages increases the amount of time spent eating, increases saliva flow, and reduces the level of boredom and associated behavioral problems. Processed forage has been used successfully in horse diets with minimal problems when appropriate feeding management and adequate exercise is provided.

Poor quality forages should not be used in horse diets. Low digestibility, excessive dust, molds, weeds, foreign material, and insect infestations are all factors that can dramatically reduce the overall suitability of a forage. These types of quality detractors can lead to a multitude of problems that range from low consumption of feed to irreversible respiratory disease and/or toxicity.

Blister beetles (Epicauta species) are of particular concern when feeding horses. If blister beetles are present in a hay, it should not be fed to horses. Blister beetles contain a compound called cantharidin, which is toxic to horses. The amount of cantharidin present per beetle varies by sex and species, but as few as 100 beetles can kill a 1200-pound horse. Symptoms of blister beetle poisoning include blisters on the tongue and in the mouth, colic, diarrhea, blood or intestinal lining discharge in stools, and problems with urination or bloody discharge in urine. If blister beetle poisoning is suspected, contact a veterinarian immediately. In areas where blister beetles are a problem, poisoning potential can be reduced by using first cutting hay or by using hay harvested after first frost. Beetles are not typically active at these times. Hay conditioning at cutting increases the risk of beetles being present in the hay, since the beetles can be crushed during the conditioning process and directly incorporated into the bale. Cutting hay with a straight mower may reduce the risk of incorporating beetles into the hay by allowing the beetles time to move out of the windrow prior to baling.

Processing feed grains for horses

A number of factors should be considered before deciding whether or not to feed processed grains to horses. Since grain processing tends to increase the overall cost of the concentrate, costs of processing need to be offset by feeding advantages. Processing feed grains with relatively hard seed coats (barley, corn, sorghum) or small kernel size (wheat) will aid in their digestion and increase their ultimate utilization. Fine grinding, however, is not recommended for any feed grain. Fine particle size can lead to decreased overall palatability, increased dust associated with the ration, and increased incidence of digestive problems. Processing of larger, soft-seeded grains (oats) is generally not necessary. The soft kernel and larger kernel size allow ample processing during normal mastication (chewing).

Dental soundness should be considered in deciding whether or not to process feed grains. Horses with poor dental soundness (a particular problem in older horses) tend to benefit more from processing than younger horses with sounder mouths and teeth. Horses fed high amounts of grain for maximum performance may also benefit from processed feed grains.

Many different methods of processing grain are acceptable. Some examples include pelleting, rolling, flaking, cracking, wafering, and extruding. Desirable pellet size varies, but most recommendations range from 0.2 to 0.75 inches in diameter.

Commercially prepared horse feeds, complete feeds, textured feeds, or total mixed rations offer some benefits and are especially popular among part-time horse owners due to the ease of feeding. The convenience and quality control of commercially available feeds needs to be balanced against their relative cost. The general recommendation of maintaining at least 1.0 percent body weight in long-stemmed forage is still applicable.

Frequency of feeding

The digestive health of the horse is enhanced with frequent feedings, particularly with respect to concentrates. When concentrates exceed 0.5 percent of body weight in the ration (5 pounds of grain for a 1000 pound horse) it is generally best to feed the grain in two or more feedings per day to reduce the risk of digestive upset. These meals should be fed 10 to 14 hours apart. Idle, mature horses can be fed up to 5 pounds of grain once a day, if they have continuous access to pasture. Young, growing horses consuming significant quantities of grain need to be fed concentrates at least twice a day. Stabled (non-pastured) horses should also be fed at least twice a day. High performance horses are often fed three times a day or more.

Feeding should occur during quiet times of the day so the horse will not be distracted and bolt (rapidly consume) its feed. A horse will learn to anticipate mealtime, so feeding at the same times each day is encouraged. Irregular feeding schedules can lead to feed bolting and digestive problems. It may also cause undue psychological stress.

Equal amounts of concentrate should be provided with each feeding. Hay should be provided when offering concentrates to stabled horses, with the bulk of the hay given in the evening, providing night time activity.

Changing the ration

To prevent digestive upset, be sure to gradually adapt horses to any ration change over several days. It takes time for the digestive tract to adapt to significant ration changes, especially when switching from an all forage diet to one with a large amount of concentrate. If grain or concentrate levels need to be increased substantially, do so incrementally over a period of several days. For example, increase the amount of grain by 0.5 pounds per day every two to three days until the desired level of grain is reached.

Teeth and dental soundness

Symptoms of improper chewing include feed falling from the horse’s mouth during chewing, wasted feed, excessive slobbering, indigestion, and large amounts of whole grain in the feces. A horse’s teeth may need to be checked if it is taking longer than normal to clean up its feed. Conversely, sore spots in the mouth may cause horses to bolt their feed to reduce the amount of time the sore is irritated. Strong, sour odors from the mouth can be indications of tooth cavities or food particles lodged in the mouth. Floating (filing) the teeth may be necessary to remove sharp edges produced from excessively worn teeth. A good management practice to follow is to check teeth once per year in adult horses and twice per year in aged horses.

Vitamin and mineral supplements

There are a variety of good quality mineral and vitamin supplements on the market. Horse owners may be tempted to fall into the `if some is good, more is better’ trap. This is not the case with vitamin and mineral supplements. Excess levels of most vitamins and minerals can cause problems for horses. Using commercially prepared mineral and vitamin supplements at the recommended levels will take the guesswork out of proper mineral and vitamin supplementation. In many cases, commercially prepared concentrate supplements will provide all the necessary vitamins and minerals, so no additional supplementation is necessary except in special cases.

Special concerns

The amount of hay fed to heavy working horses should be restricted immediately prior to exercise. Horses will normally consume a regular meal within an hour. Allow one hour between the time the horse finishes a meal and heavy work. Also, remember to reduce the nutrient intake of a working horse during periods of reduced activity. Tying-up, (`Monday morning disease’ or `azoturia’) can occur in working horses that are being fed high grain diets and given one or more days of complete rest with no change in diet. Although the exact cause of the problem is not known, it is likely that the condition results from exercise that exceeds the state of training. The condition was common in draft horses that were worked hard six days a week and given rest on Sunday. Tying-up occurred following the resumption of work on Monday. Reducing grain intake during periods of inactivity and beginning exercise programs slowly following extended periods of inactivity are recommended.

Reducing the rate of grain intake may be necessary if horses bolt their feed or if competition between horses for the same feed becomes a problem (pen- or group-fed horses). Several methods can be used to slow rate of intake. Grain can be spread out in shallow troughs or feeders, or large stones can be placed in grain feeders so that horses are required to eat around them. If a pelleted feed is used, harder pellets will tend to increase the amount of time spent chewing and decrease the overall rate of intake.

Individual feeding is the best way to assure each horse receives the necessary amount of feed to meet its individual nutrient requirements. Competition among horses in group-feeding situations can result in aggressive horses consuming more than their share of feed while more timid horses are not given the opportunity to receive adequate amounts of feed. In these types of situations, it may be better to feed less aggressive horses separately or to place feeding stations 50 to 75 feet apart to reduce competition during feeding. When feeding groups of horses, you may also wish to use one more feed bucket or trough than the number of horses. This will give the submissive horse a chance to eat next to an unoccupied bucket or trough.

Inherent nervousness caused by unfamiliar surroundings can often be reduced by offering the horse many small meals of hay during the day. Providing mineral blocks to the traveling horse may also help dispel nervous activity.

Horses are also susceptible to nitrate poisoning and prussic acid poisoning. For more information on these problems refer to Nitrate Poisoning of Livestock (NDSU Extension Service Circular V-839) or Prussic Acid Poisoning (NDSU Extension Service Circular V-1150).

Summary

Horses have a unique digestive tract in comparison to other species of livestock. Horses are monogastrics but can use forages effectively due to the presence of the microbial population in the hindgut. Because of the unique nature of the digestive tract, proper feeding management is important to ensure that the nutritional needs of the horse are met.

Long-stemmed forages such as hays or pasture are necessary in the diet to ensure normal digestive function. When concentrates are fed, consideration should be given to grain processing, frequency of feeding, the amount of concentrate necessary, and dental soundness. Ration changes should always be made gradually.

Nutritional quality of hays and other forages intended for horses is important. To ensure optimum health and performance of your horse do not feed hays that are excessively dusty, moldy, weedy or have blister beetles present. As with any species of livestock, access to good quality water is also important to ensure optimum health and performance.

Horses are a beautiful creation of nature. To keep horses fit and healthy for work, e.g. on farms and in racing, equine physiotherapy is used. Physical therapy and exercises specially designed for horses form a part of this medical practice. Long life and health of horses as well as freedom from stress is maintained through this form of treatment. Horses undergoing equine physiotherapy recover from injuries at a faster rate and with a high chance of success, if they are treated with equine physiotherapy, according to various studies. Just as human beings need special care with treatments to heal, so do horses.

Therapy for horses may be resorted to for several reasons that include injuries due to sports, advancing age, poor nutrition, over training, incorrect use of the saddle, physical defects in the horse’s body and imbalance of the rider. Health care professionals that are specially trained for this purpose know the equine anatomy very well and also study the current technologies and any medical breakthroughs, to be able to apply the latest developments in practice. With the help of veterinarians and surgeons, animal physical therapists increase the animal’s mobility, reduce pain, lower pain and swelling and also prevent future irritation or injury. Equine physiotherapy may be carried out at an animal hospital, or at the client’s home.

An animal doctor will examine the heart, bones, lungs, muscles, digestive system and blood circulation of the horse, to decide upon the use of equine physiotherapy. The animal physical therapist is trained to recognize symptoms that indicate lameness and muscle or spinal problems. An animal physical therapist can treat neck pain, injuries of tendons or ligaments, back pain or any problems in the back, bruising, joint and leg swelling or muscle spasms.

Rehabilitation of the horse may last for just a few weeks or for several months or even longer, depending on the exact cause. Typically, equine physiotherapy will involve the horse, its therapist, owner and / or trainer. Treatment method of various types of equine ailments, injuries or defects varies with each animal physical therapist. Among the techniques commonly used in equine physiotherapy are therapeutic massage, soft tissue mobilization, ultrasound, hydrotherapy for joint and limb mobility, heat therapy and pulsating electromagnetic field therapy. An animal therapist will also teach the client about prevention of further injuries, such as those happening by too fast a cool down.

A range of tools and equipment is used by animal physiotherapists in their work. Among these tools, there is a pack that resembles a heating pad. It is meant to cover the horse’s breast or the saddle area and alleviate the back pain. It also helps rejuvenate the horse’s muscular and circulatory systems.

Generally speaking, animal physiotherapists commence their studies with a human physiotherapist and gradually switch over to equine physiotherapy. This is becoming a competitive field of practice, with increasing requirements for preventing injury and care of animals.

These general guidelines for horse owners are not intended to replace regular visits with a veterinarian. If you have a question about your animal’s health, please consult your vet.

Nutritional Needs

A horse’s digestive system is made to process large quantities of grass, which is high in fiber and water. The basic diet for most horses should be grass and good quality hay, free of dust and mold. In most cases, plenty of fresh, clean, unfrozen water should be available at all times, even if the horse only drinks once or twice a day.

How much is enough?
Most of the time, horses should be able to graze or eat hay when they want to. An empty stomach lends itself to a higher risk of ulcers, which are quite common in race and sport horses. How much to feed depends on various factors such as condition and activity level, but most horses should eat between 2% and 4% of their body weight in pounds of hay or other feeds. You have to watch your horse and make sure he is maintaining an appropriate weight. Your veterinarian can help you decide how to feed to keep your horse fit and healthy.

A word on grains
Most horses, even fairly active ones, don’t need the extra calories found in grains, which are high in carbohydrates. Foals fed “high energy” diets can develop bone and joint problems. Some adult horses develop certain muscle disorders related to excess carbohydrates. It is also incorrect to feed a horse extra grain in the winter to keep him warm. Hay, in fact, produces more heat when digested.

Any changes in the diet should be made gradually to avoid colic (abdominal pain usually associated with intestinal disease) or laminitis (painful inflammation in the hoof associated with separation of the hoof bone from the hoof wall), either of which can be catastrophic. A horse or pony breaking into the grain bin or being allowed to gorge on green pasture for the first time since the fall is headed for disaster. If you travel with your horse, bring his food along. For some horses, you may also have to bring a supply of the water he is used to.

Vaccinations and Deworming

All horses need vaccinations and most need regular deworming. The specifics should be discussed with an equine veterinarian. Every horse should be protected against tetanus. Other vaccines given routinely include eastern and western equine encephalomyelitis, equine influenza, rhinopneumonitis (equine herpes), and rabies. Vaccines for West Nile Virus are also available. Ask your veterinarian if other vaccines are appropriate for your horse.

Worms can cause weight loss, poor coat, and colic, which can be deadly. It is best to have your veterinarian test and deworm your horse, or advise you on what to use and when. More important than treating worms is minimizing the horse’s exposure to parasites. Proper management entails not putting too many horses on too little land, rotating pastures if possible, and removing feces regularly.

Housing, Rest and Exercise

Contrary to what you may have heard, straight stalls are not necessarily worse than box stalls if the horses are together, and spend most of their day outside. Horses isolated in box stalls can develop behavioral problems from lack of companionship, exercise, and mental stimulation. Whenever possible, horses should be outside with other horses every day.

Horses can go into a light sleep with their legs “locked” so that it takes very little effort to remain standing. In order to achieve deep (REM or “dreaming”) sleep, a horse must lie flat. It is not known how much or how often a horse needs to do this, but do take note of any changes in your horse’s sleeping patterns.

Horses were born to move. In the wild they may walk many miles in a day, sometimes trot, but rarely gallop unless they have to. Daily opportunity to exercise is a must, but if you are building up your horse’s strength and conditioning, follow a sensible plan and do it gradually.

Extreme Weather Precautions

Unless it is very wet and windy, horses tolerate cold much better than heat and humidity. If they can’t sweat, they can’t get rid of heat buildup in their bodies. If the sum of the temperature in degrees Fahrenheit and the relative humidity in percentage is over 130, you should be cautious about exercising your horse. If it is over 150, you should probably rest in the shade, and if it is over 180, most horses should not work at all.

Hoof Care

Hooves should be trimmed every six to eight weeks for horses whose feet do not get adequate natural wear. Despite tradition, most horses don’t need shoes if their hooves are given the opportunity to strengthen naturally. In fact, some hoof problems are directly related to shoeing. However, changes should not be made suddenly or without expert guidance. Finding a veterinarian or farrier willing to discuss all the options may be hard, but worthwhile. In any case, neglecting the feet can be disastrous for the horse.

Teeth

Horses’ teeth grow continuously. Uneven wear can lead to sharp points and edges that cause pain and difficulty chewing. A horse’s teeth should be checked once or twice a year and “floated” (to make them smoother) by a veterinarian or well-trained equine dentist as needed. Dental problems, from painful points to rotting teeth, may cause difficulty chewing or “quidding,” which occurs when food falls out of the mouth. Other signs of dental disease may include foul breath, undigested hay in the stools, or discomfort from the bit or noseband. Dental disease can lead to choke, colic, and weight loss.

Equine Poison Prevention

The veterinarians at the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center have compiled the following list of spring and summer hazards for horses:

• Wilted red maple leaves
• Black walnut  (e.g. as shavings in bedding)
• Oak (especially new-growth leaves in the springtime)
• Taxus species (yew, Japanese yew, American yew, English yew, western yew, oleander and rose laurel
• Rhododendron and azalea
• White snakeroot, richweed, white sanicle, jimmy weed, rayless goldenrod, burrow weed
• Yellow star thistle, St. Barnaby’s thistle, Russian napweed
• Blister beetles, which can sometimes be found in alfalfa hay, especially in the Midwest and Southwest)

Types-of-horses by color.Most horses are a specific color within a number of colors that define horses such as gray, bay and black . But a few horses and ponies have an unusual, distinct and exotic coat color and patterns. Some people value this color differentiation above everything else and breeds have been started that pertain to these specific horse colorations. Examples of these breed associations would be:

Horses can either be horse size or pony size. Although there are different breeds of ponies, horses that are under a certain height are also classified as pony size. Pony breeds may include Welsh, Shetland and POA. Yet a horse that is a Quarter Horse Breed can be a “pony size” if it is under 14-2 hands tall. A ‘hand’ is equivalent to 4” and is measured from the ground to the top of the horses withers.

Types-of-Horses by Use.

This would include such horses that seem to be suitable for a certain task that is of value to riders. For instance there is hunter type horse , or cob type, or polo ponies. These do not have to be of any specific breed but rather have the characteristics of temperament , size and conformation that meet the requirements for the designated task.

Hunter type horses, should have good stamina, be able to jump and have the boldness to gallop over varied terrain with the hounds, in hot pursuit of a fox.

 Polo ponies are usually not larger than 15-1 hands. They must be capable of short bursts of speed and agile enough to make quick turns. Good balance and smooth gaits will make the polo player’s job of hitting the ball easier.A cob is a shorter, stockier horse, with excellent freedom of movement. The Cob has an unflappable nature and a willing attitude. Although remember that nutrition can have an impact on a horse’s attitude. Cobs seem to be very useful for elderly riders or riders with not to much athletic ability, and because of their stockiness have great weight carrying ability.

Horse’s designated by type are fewer than those designated by breed. However grade horses or cross bred horses usually are more apt to be designated as a certain ‘type’ especially if their ancestry is completely unknown.

The Knabstrup societyThe Appaloosa Horse ClubThe Paint Horse Association

 Types-of-horses by Size.

 
]]> http://sk8erbabe377.wordpress.com/2009/06/04/types-of-horses-2/feed/ 0 sk8erbabe377 http://sk8erbabe377.wordpress.com/2009/06/02/the-basics-for-caring-for-a-horse/ http://sk8erbabe377.wordpress.com/2009/06/02/the-basics-for-caring-for-a-horse/#comments Tue, 02 Jun 2009 17:30:33 +0000 sk8erbabe377 http://sk8erbabe377.wordpress.com/?p=25 ]]> While they will learn to adapt to stable life, it is vital to exercise your horse to satisfy its physical needs. Also, a horse will become bored and discontented if it does not have the regular company of humans and other horses.While there is no exact acreage requirement for horses, it is generally considered that one acre of pasture per horse is sufficient. Before pasturing your horse, check the pasture for trash, holes in the fencing, and other hazards. You must check for poisonous plants in your pasture weekly, at the very least. The most harmful plants are yew, deadly nightshade, ragwort, foxglove, buttercups, oak leaves and acorns, bracken, laurel, privet, meadow saffron, castor bean, locoweed, horsetail, star thistle, and sorghum.

Your pasture must be fenced, of course, to prevent your horse from escaping or being injured. White rail fences look great, but are costly to install and maintain. Plain wire fencing is fine if it is well-secured to strong wooden posts. Barbed wire is not recommended for horse fencing.

Your horse will require shelter to protect it from wind, rain, and the sun. A natural grove of trees provides good shade, but for shelter from the elements, a three-sided enclosure works the best. Make sure your shelter is large enough to enable all your horses to fit inside together, and build it so the back wall faces the prevailing wind.

Horses require a constant supply of fresh, clean water. If you plan to use a watering bucket, you must refill it at least twice daily and whenever it is empty. Putting the bucket inside a tire will keep it from being easily tipped over. A watering trough, supplied by a pipe, is better, but must be checked during winter weather to ensure the pipe and water surface have not frozen.

Proper bedding is vital for horses kept in a barn or stable. Horses should not stand all day on a hard floor, and they will lie down to sleep or rest. Straw is a popular bedding choice because it is inexpensive, warm, and comfortable. However, straw occasionally contains fungal spores, and the horse will occasionally eat straw bedding.

Dust-free wood shavings are clean and hygienic. You can also use rubber matting for a soft resting and standing surface, but you should put straw or wood shavings on top of it to provide warmth. Also, hemp has become a popular bedding choice recently.

The stable must be cleaned (‘mucked out’) daily. If your horse is stabled all day, it should be cleaned three times daily. To muck out the stable, you will remove any droppings with a shovel and wheelbarrow, and level the horse’s bedding.

After you have removed the droppings, separate the soiled bedding from the still-clean bedding material. Sweep, and then clean the floor with a stable disinfectant. After the floor is dry, return the clean bedding to its place, then add fresh bedding material to make up for the removed soiled amount.

If your horse is stabled most or all of the day, it will require grooming daily to keep its coat healthy. However, don’t over groom a horse that spends most or all of its time in the pasture. The natural oils in its coat help to keep your horse warm and dry.
 
]]> http://sk8erbabe377.wordpress.com/2009/06/02/the-basics-for-caring-for-a-horse/feed/ 0 sk8erbabe377 http://sk8erbabe377.wordpress.com/2009/06/01/feeding-a-horse/ http://sk8erbabe377.wordpress.com/2009/06/01/feeding-a-horse/#comments Mon, 01 Jun 2009 18:04:37 +0000 sk8erbabe377 http://sk8erbabe377.wordpress.com/?p=14 ]]> Pasture

The most natural food for horses is good quality pasture. Most mature pleasure horses doing light work will do well on pasture alone if they have sufficient grazing. However, horses are selective grazers and need a large area to meet their nutritional needs. Just because a field is green does not mean it contains sufficient grazing for a horse, and depending on where you live, for a large part of the year pasture is not available.

You can optimize the amount of grazing available by dividing your pasture into sections and rotating your horses through the different paddocks. That way, you give the grass a chance to grow back and can pick up the manure.

Hay

Hay is the basic food of domestic horses. Only feed good quality hay to horses. Inspect hay carefully before buying it, asking the seller to open a bale. Make sure the bales are green and dust and mold free. Stick your hand down into the centre of a bale to make sure it’s not warm. Feeding moldy hay can cause colic and dusty hay can cause respiratory problems. (To avoid dust, it’s a good idea to pull the flakes apart and shake them out well before feeding. As a precaution, you can also soak hay before feeding.)

The type of hay available varies according to the area you live in. Three basic types in Alberta are grass hay, alfalfa hay and grass/alfalfa mix. Common grasses are timothy and brome. Alfalfa has a higher protein content than grass. Many horse people consider a grass/alfalfa mix the best for horses, and timothy/brome/alfalfa is a common combination.

Alfalfa is also available in cubes and pellets. However, horses need chew time to be content, so except for veterinary reasons, most people feed some hay. Some horses have a tendency to choke on cubes. To be safe, you can soften cubes with water before feeding.

Do not feed your horse grass clippings as they can cause founder.

Concentrates

Hay alone cannot provide enough nutrition for hard-working horses, pregnant and nursing mares, or growing youngsters. They need concentrates to supplement the hay. However, hay should still provide the bulk of the diet. Feeding too much grain can cause problems.

Concentrates include grains (whole, rolled or cracked), sweet feed (grain mixed with molasses), and manufactured feeds (pellets, cubes, or extruded). You can buy bags of feed specially formulated for every stage of a horse’s life from creep feed for foals to feed for senior equines.

Beet pulp provides additional bulk. Beet pellets must be soaked before feeding to allow them to expand. If you use hot water, they expand in about an hour, but with cold water, allow overnight soaking. Only prepare enough for one day’s feeding at a time.